Just a postscript to my earlier email.
I finished my time in Santiago by attending the Pilgrims Mass. It was also the Feast of the Presentation of the Lord, and traditionally the blessing of candles. So we all were given candles for the occasion. The Archbishop of Santiago was the celebrant. The Botofumeiro, a huge thurable was above the altar but was not used. It has been used for hundreds of years. Originally it was used because the pilgrims, try as the may, still smelt from their journey and this upset the locals. The smell of the incense coming from the Botofrmeiro, took away the smell.
So this Pilgrims Mass was a nice way to end my stay at Santiago.