28 January – Day 32:

One of the small problems on the Camino is communication with wifi. Positively, it’s just accepted as part of the deal, like power and water. No extra charge. Negatively, it is not always what it seems. It may not work in the bedrooms or only in the lobby. It may be very weak or slow. It may be unsecured, and the server will not accept it for safety reasons. This has happened to me on this and tomorrow’s destination, and hence this late blog.

Last night was good. This albergue and Casa at Olveiroa have become the place of choice for the final drive to Finisterre (or Muxia) tomorrow. If there are enough pilgrims then the restaurant (which is also part of the premises) is used. The cook provides a 3 course meal with wine or coke etc as required.  It’s always a good evening and dubs as a final celebration before the journey to the ‘end of the earth.’  It was a little different this time as most did not speak English so it was a case of listening but not understanding. Catalonia was mentioned a few times so I imagine the rather intense conversation was about that situation.

I was surprised to see the distance today is either 34.5 kms to Finisterre or 32.5 kms to Muxia. I had imagined the journey to Muxia a lot shorter than 2 kms. I think the others are going to Finisterre.

First off is a 5km hike uphill to Hospital. There are a lot of places on the route by this name as these were hospitals set up for the pilgrims on route. There is a bar/restaurant where there is a final chance to stock up before there long journey ahead.

Shortly after one goes left or right, to Finisterre or Muxia. I chose Muxia. Initially the route follows the road, but soon the Camino takes its own way through tracks and country roads, surrounded by Australian eucalyptus, which has really taken over in this part of Spain. I met one of the 2 Spanish women from last night, who is also doing this route.

Signage is not so good on this part of the Camino. Few waymarkers. The occasional yellow arrow. Even laminated squares with a yellow arrow on them against a blue background, nailed to a tree. Not so good.

Arriving at a bar at 2pm, I was supprised to be told I had 16 kms to go. I had thought it was less. The hotelier did show me a way of cutting it down from 16 kms to 13 kms. But this really showed me the problem I am facing. With waymarkers or with or behind other people, there is always a way of  judging how you are going timewise, but by yourself you tend to wander and usually get slower as time goes on. Of course I can monitor my time and distance on my iPhone but this makes it very mechanical, which I really don’t want.

I began to see the sea in the distance. It is important to remember that for the early pilgrims, eg from landlocked countries like Germany, they had never seen the sea before.

The walk into Muxia is quite nice and picturesque. I found the municipal albergue and received my credential. Then to my accomodation. They were a little unorganised, having trouble working the computer. Finally, I had my room. The wifi didn’t work in the room, only in the lobby. I had a nice meal and was able to watch Barcelona playing with Messi. Barcelona attacked al the time, were in complete control, but found themselves 1-0 down due to a runaway goal at the other end. I went back to my pension to see the 2nd half but it was not on my TV. Found out later Barcelona got through 2-1 due to some Messi brilliance. Everytime Messi got the ball the commentator would get really excited and I can see why.

Tomorrow is my final day, as I walk overland from Muxia to Finisterre.




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